Posts Tagged With: south America

Cusco, Peru

Leaving Virginia and her family was hard but the city of Cusco awaits us;) After a long bus ride we arrive at our hostel early, 5:30 am to be exact,  but check in wasn’t until 11am, so what’s a girl to do?
THIS…

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NOTE: Looking homeless always gets you in your room faster;)
Clearly, Jorgie hasn’t gotten to that point of  desperation that would allow someone to believe that the floor as your bed, your scarf as your cover,  and your mochila as your pillow are perfectly acceptable means of rest. 😉 He opted to sit at the table and watch as I lay, FAST ASLEEP.
Thank you, to the gentleman who refused us a room, that later decided that a homeless looking traveler laying on the floor of the breakfast area wouldn’t be good for business…“ROOMS READY MA’AM”

VALARIE: 1
HOSTEL NAZI: 0  😉

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Plaza de Armas is the center of town and hosts many visitor friendly things like banks, ATMs, restaurants, nightlife,  and KFC…yes, there is a Kentucky Fried Chicken here as well….so odd;)

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It still doesn’t get old seeing beautiful churches;)

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You can’t see in the pictures but Plaza de Armas background is a landscape of mountains;) GORGEOUS!

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Calle Hatunrumiyoc has a famous 12 angled stone that is HUGE!!
 

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I look little standing next to it;)
 

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Me and the ALPACA
Ps…Jorgie ate a steak of alpaca for dinner. Poor little alpaca

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The End To Our Time With Virginia & Her Family

Once we arrived  we were honered to have dinner with the whole family.  Since the table area was small, Daniel, Virginia’s dad, and her were the only ones other than Jorgie and I at the table. Her brother Alex, and mother Augustina ate at another table in the kitchen. We feasted on potatoes and rice and veggies.  All I kept thinking was to her, she must be thinking that this is a simple meal for us, but if she knew how much this girl LOVES rice, and this boy LOVES potatoes,  she would know how grateful we were. Afterwards,  we were excited to know that the town was throwing us a fiesta and we need to go right after dinner. We had the ultimate honor of going to this party dressed in the traditional clothing that any wonan and man our age would go to a party in.

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Being dressed by Mamá Augustina was something that I will never forget;)

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Watching her dress Jorgie is now a memory I will cherish forever. Watching him, allowing her to adorn him, with all the respect he had to give as a man,  was something I so rarely get to witness from a man, was breathtaking. He stood humble,  but strong, and that moment alone made me feel differently for him….I’m not sure I was supposed to get all of this from that moment, but I will never allow it to leave me.

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We are now ready to PARTY!! JORGIE, ME, & VIRGINIA;)

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As soon as we showed up, the music started and dancing,  and celebration was in order;)

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Virginia immediately grabbed Jorgie and started dancing!!

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I got my dancing in too!!

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I had a great time!!!!

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With all the celebrating,  we had enough time to capture the moment;)

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The morning we were leaving Virginia didn’t let us leave with an empty stomach!

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A hearty breakfast and boiling tea was how we left Virginia’s home.

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It amazing to think that all the meals that I have told you about were all prepared in this very humble kitchen with no working stove. Wgat an amazing woman.

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As we walked to the dock to say goodbye, all I could think about was that Virginia and I were practically the same age…how different my life would’ve been had I been born into this.

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As we said our goodbyes and deepest thanks for an amazing time and hospitality, we boarded the boat with a new  appreciation for all that we have and for the hospitality of a family that for a short moment,  felt like ours.
THANK YOU VIRGINIA & FAMILY!  

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Our Stay with Virginia Part 2!

I’m glad that Virginia ordered rest because we were going to climb Mount Pachatata.  This is one of two sacrimonial pilgrimages these people do a year. Every 3rd Thursday in January everyone in the village makes the trek, half go to Pachamama, and the other go to the higher of the two, Pachatata.  We were going to clumb Pachatata ofcourse;) We were told this hike would take us 45-60 mins.

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Along the way we see a burro!! Honestly, I have no idea why I love burros soooo much but I do;) I think it’s the stubbornness, but I want one, or six;)

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One thing we didnt consider….we are walking straight up and the altitude is getting us!!! This is kinda hard!!!

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Along the way you will see the locals selling arts and crafts that they are crafting right there!! A few, GOD BLESS THEM, are selling water and snacks so you don’t pass out;)
 

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Jorgie making his way up this beautiful mountain;)

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We are almost there! (By the look on my face, you can tell, THE STRUGGLE WAS REAL!)

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But once you get to the top…the view is 360 degrees of Lake Titicaca! BEAUTIFUL!!

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A quick photo because we made it just before sunset. We find a rock and get nestled in for the show;)

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Boy is it gorgeous…as the sun sets the air becomes crisp and the warm glow off the horizon lets us know its time to head back;)

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Some of the local girls are eager to take a photo!
NOTE: These sweet faces are still trying to sell you a bracelet or craft. Refrain from taking a pic with them unless you are willing to pay for the pic or buy a bracelet. 
But really…who would pass up this photo opp?!?
“I’ll take a bracelet” 😉

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As the sunsets, we bundle back up and head back down for dinner with our new family. If dinner is anything like lunch was, we are going to be happy campers!!

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Do Not Pass This Up! Amantani Island Pt.1

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We made a quick over night stop in Puno, Perú because we had planned on staying with a family on Isla de Amantani for a night. To get there we had to board a small boat and travel 3 hours off the coast of Perú.

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When we arrived we were both nervous because other than knowing we were going to stay with a local family and learn about their way of life, we really didn’t know what to expect.  We hopped off the boat to meet our family for the next 2 days.

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As we exit, we can see that the women are there to greet us and also find out who they will be hosting. We didn’t know it then but we were going to be assigned to Virginia,  she’s 3rd from the right;)
 

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Once we knew we were going to be staying with her we walked back to her home.  On the way she showed us their church…

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This was the road that led to her home.
Fuente de la Eterna Juventud = Fountain of Eternal Youth
I know which road I’m walking down as many times as I can!!!

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We arrived to the home that Virginia shares with her parents Augustina and Daniel, along with her brother Alex. Don’t be fooled by the structure, this building is nothing more than a mud/clay house with windows.

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She then shows us to our room. This is the view right outside our door…..overlooking Lake Titicaca. Simply amazing;)

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The inside of our room is simple but so comfortable;)
Virginia says for us to get comfortable and that she has made us almuerzo. For two weary travelers,  a home cooked meal sounds amazing and we are extremely grateful!

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She shows us around so we know where we will be staying.

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The outdoor baño doesn’t flush but its soooo clean which is more than I can say for half the hostels we have stayed in up to this point;) The bucket next to the toilet is filled with water so you can rinse out the toilet after you use it…..IT’S ABOUT TO GET REAL!! 🙂

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She then invites us to sit in her kitchen/dining area. Decorated with beautiful colored tableclothes, I’m a happy guest;)

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She serves up the most delicious bowl of Sopa de Quinoa. This dish is a staple for her family and all the Andean people who live on Amantani Island. They grow their own quinoa in the backyard!!

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We thought it was enough with the sopa but then she serves us a plate of home grown potatoes,  an egg, and a side salad of tomatoes and cucumbers. We are more than full but we indulge and thank Virginia for her work in the kitchen.

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AND IT JUST KEEPS COMIN!!!
She ends the meal with a steaming cup of tea and provides us coca leaves and fresh spearmint grown in her garden. (Belly soooo full) I sit back and enjoy the tea.
PS. you haven’t lived if you haven’t had fresh herbs in your tea…MAKE IT HAPPEN;)

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As we were sipping our tea…we got guests!!

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The familias chickens must have smelled the delicious cooking and wanted in for a taste!  Even with my offer to help clean the dishes she wouldn’t hear of it and orders us rest;)

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After lunch we had some time to relax before a hike up to Pachatata, one of the islands places of worship. We are already so high up, but Pachatata is going to be even higher and the cold is going to set in.
Augustina (Virginia’s mama) knits hats for a living and offers me one….It was one of the coolest things I have ever bought. 

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Vamos a La Paz, Bolivia!!!

Fresh off the plane and standing outside the airport as we have done several times now, the first 5 minutes of every city has felt the same, anxiety so high its hard to breathe, the absurd feeling of being completely naked allthough I have everything I own strapped to my back,  and the look Jorgie and I give each other right before we step out of the safety of an airport and out into the open hoping all the planning we have done in books and on the Internet was going to match what was in front of us….this first 5 minutes we feel the most vulnerable and lean on each other incredibly.  It’s funny how quickly we have learned and adjusted who is better at what. As quickly as those first 5 minutes start….they fade. Each city has brought us incredible blessings and La Paz was no different. At first glance,  La Paz is slightly scary.  Gone are the big high rises of Buenos Aires,  the afternoon window shoppers of Mendoza. They are replaced with a much poorer looking city with a people that are dressed in garb I wouldn’t of imaged. But of all the cities so far…La Paz, Bolivia would be the place I would recommend people to as a whole;) Let me show you why….. 

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The people of La Paz are ones that have held on to long practiced traditions and haven’t conformed too much. This single thing alone makes a visit here feel like your in another world completely.

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La Paz is roughly 11,975 feet above sea level. That means a very light headed, nauseous, “I can’t breathe”, Val. 😉
At this elevation, the air is so thin that it is recommended to take it easy the first couple days until you adjust to it. They have a “local ” cure for altitude sickness, COCA TEA! This simple, yet effective, tea is plainly: very hot water, the coca leaves in their natural state, and sweetner if desired. These little leaves are banned in the US because these are the leaves that, along with a bunch of other chemicals, make up cocaine.
NOOOOW…. it’s extremely important to understand that these leaves are a daily staple to the Andean people and they take great offense to anyone believing that they are using a drug. They are very quick to fully explain that in their natural state they aid in altitude sickness,  upset stomach, are loaded with antioxidants, and help with digestion. It is completely true that the coca leaves alone are nothing more than a leaf. You can see women and men all over the city sipping their coca teas or simply putting the raw leaves in the side of their mouth (much like tobacco dip) and chewing and ingesting the juices. We tried both of course! The tea was amazing!!! The raw leaves tastes exactly like that….like I was chewing on grass! 😉 We preferred the tea!

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Don’t be alarmed if a young man with a mask walks up to you…you will see gentlemen like this guy all over the city. They are shoe shiners and cover their face because they are embarrassed that tgey aren’t in school and want no one to know their identity.

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I was photo bombed by a local!!!

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In La Paz do not miss the local markets that sell handcrafted goodies made by the locals here. While everything is very reasonably priced,  bargaining is okay. The Witches Market are stalls upon stalls with colorful alpaca sweaters, purses, hats, gloves, and the famous toboggan (sp?). We couldn’t get enough of all the colors!   

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I did say this was a WITCHES MARKET😉
Here they have potions, pills, and even alpaca fetuses that will cure anything that might ale you from infertility, neck aches, back aches,  impotence, and we even found a cologne makes it seem if worn your gonna have to beat the women off you with a stick!!
Jorgie eyed it for a moment….but what this place doesn’t sell is a quick nudge and a questionable look from a woman. That cures most things;)  Move along buster;)

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I’m not sure if this is how the outfit was supposed to come together….but he was just too happy about his hat purchase to pass this moment up without capturing it;) 
Winter hat,  summer tank top, basketball shorts,  and flip flops?!?!
#Adorable but he still is a hot mess here;)

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Like all of the cities so far…they have no shortage of beautiful churches.  

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Plaza Murillo has its flagship church right in he center of the plaza and it is gorgeous.

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We caught some schoolboys in the plaza in an intense game of fútbol!

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As we made our way to Calle Jaén the roads changed to cobblestone abd the buildings more colorful.

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Calle Jaén

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Keep strolling and you will run into the place were all the big decisions are made.

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This plaza was COVERED with birds waiting to be fed, as the kids played with them.

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CLEARLY. ..We are kids;)
(I couldn’t open my asian eyes!)

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This took some time cause with all my interactions with animals, I’m TERRIFIED at first.

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But soon the birds just perched on my head and we were able to get along juuuuuust fine! 😉

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We called it a day and indulged in a café. Here the coffee is made with pure coffee bean extract so you have to add water to it, super strong stuff, but a fantastic way for us to end our time in La Paz!

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Santiago…Parte Dos!

Over our next several days in Santiago we covered many if the highlights and gems of the city.
Our 1st stop:
The colorful neighborhood of Bella Vista.

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This artsy part of Santiago holds music, art, freedom, and expression as its foundation. Strolling this neighborhood is a can’t miss for me if you ever find yourself in Santiago.  

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Maybe it was the gorgeous weather, colorful buildings, or the ease of which I felt comfortable, but this neighborhood felt like Austin to me. And in that moment we stopped,  grabbed a michelada, and welcomed that feeling;) 

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This colorful district is also the proud owner of one of Pablo Neruda’s 3 famous homes.
“I love you without knowing how, or when, or from where. I love you simply, without problems or pride: I love you in this way because I do not know any other way of loving but this, in which there is no I or you, so intimate that your hand upon my chest is my hand, so intimate that when I fall asleep your eyes close.” – Pablo Neruda

Look him up….he’s a poet…and he’s awesome;)

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Our next stop:
The Vega Mercado
In this partially open air market you can find just about anything you might want. From tools to school supplies to toiletries, you can wheel and deal your afternoon away. The main attraction here though is the fresh food!!! The gigantic fruit and vegetable stands will have your fingers ready to pick and your tongue ready to taste!

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With every turn of your head, all you could see was a rainbow of colors!!

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TIP: Do not miss out on buying paltas (avocados) here. We bought one bigger than my hand!!! Es MUY delicioso!!! 

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And our last stop:
Santa Lucía District
This little area holds 2 things you should not miss! First, the Terraza Neptuno.

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This fountain holds an old beauty that non of my pictures truly does any justice. Adorned with 2 attached staircases that act as the wings to this fountain…makes it so angelic.

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And directly behind Terraza Neptuno lies Cerros de Santa Lucía.

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This walk up to the top will take you about 15-20 mins but at the top awaits one of the best views of the city.
CAUTION: The steps are pretty steep and are basically just rocks,  but if you use the handrail and walk carefully you should be just fine;)

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AT THE TOP! Sweaty and slightly winded we were rewarded with this view;)  You can faintly see the snow capped Andes Mountains looking over the city.

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Going down is just as dangerous…but you gotta get a pic right?!?

***Our time in Santiago is up and we must go, but this city will stay with me. VAMOS!

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Exploring the streets of Santiago de Chile!!

Throughout the entirety of the trip we always get asked some questions….“How long are you traveling?” “Where have you been so far?” “Where are you going next?” And if your Jorgie,  “Are you Chilean?” (I just get asked where I’m from…I think the Chinita eyes throw them off 😉 )
So naturally,  we were really wondering if the look of the people change that much here in Chile. Everywhere we had been thus far showed us a very “European”, colored eyes, light hair, and fair complexion crowd. So far, we hadn’t blended in at all;) But right off the bus we did notice a difference. Long gone were the green eyed blond hair folks of South America….and Jorgie really could have been Chilean! 🙂 
Santiago de Chile is slightly smaller in population than Buenos Aires but with almost 9 million people this city is nothing to put your nose up to.  Like with all our first days in a new place,we go strolling around our hostel to get our wits about us!

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We ran right into La Moneda. This would be the equivalent to our White House. Being centered in the city, you will find locals moving to and from work, travelers camera in hand alike, and….  

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On this day, a group of “young” ladies voicing their needs!
(It doesn’t matter what age a woman reaches…our bodies may shrink, our hair may turn silver, and our muscles may go weak, but our voices….STAY STRONG! 😉 GO LADIES!!
    

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Right up the street from La Moneda was Plaza de Armas.
This church, so far, is the most beautiful I’ve seen on the trip.
The outside,  had a very old, European inspired look, that attracted the eyes of everyone around it.

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And the inside, made you believe that there has to be a God. With the dim lights, and reverent silence, Jorgie and I just sat and tried to look at every inch of it so we would never forget. I don’t know who conjured up such a romantic depiction of this House of God, but Bravo, Bravo.

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The streets in Santiago were full of life,  but here, the people are in no real hurry. Stopping always to let women pass, not letting a person go by without a welcoming “Buenos Tardes,” and a midday chess tournament…apparently women are less interested in chess here;)

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Mendoza, Argentina: The Napa Valley of Sudamérica

As we took our 16hr bus ride on Ruta Nacional 7 from Buenos Aires, I sat with excitement for Mendoza,  Argentina.  This little gem of a city is known for 2 things; Wine (Malbec to be specific) and olive oil production. Mendoza is quickly earning its title amongst The Great Capitals of Wine. Mendoza is also the largest producer of wine in Latin America and having visited Napa Valley….I was ready to give Mendoza a try;)
We planned on visiting 2 vineyards and an olive oil tree crop plantation. 

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Lujan de Cuyo; The Land of Malbec

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We started with the smaller more traditional vineyard, Cavas de Don Arturo. At this charming vineyard they export less than 40% of their wines outside of Mendoza worldwide.  That means if you want Don Arturo….you have to come to Mendoza to get it! Something we could tell…they were extremely proud of.

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They walked us through the artform of wine making at Don Arturo. 

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BRING ON THE WINE!!! (I don’t have a problem…I swear) 😉
As I grabbed my stem ready to get me a taste, our tour guide wanted to teach us a thing or two BEFORE we drink. Val still waiting patiently….learns about how you should never drink a red if it’s orange or brown in color, that swishing the wine around not only aerates the wine and releases the aromas but also lets you see if the wine has tears. Ps…you want your wine to cry per our guide. After all if this, we were allowed to get a taste. BUT WAAAAAIT! Dont swallow, swish it around in your mouth let your tastebuds tingle a bit….NOOOOW you can swallow. All of this for one sip of wine!
Ooooh but it did not disappoint;)

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Next on our list was Vistandes Vineyard.
This more modern and much larger vineyard exports over 60% of its wine. Now this doesn’t mean that this vineyard has a lower quality just much larger in size and has the capacity to export due to size.

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Noooooow…I’d just be lying if I told you that we continued that whole rigamaroo (that’s a word right?) that we were just taught….we simply drank and enjoyed;)

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All I can say is MENDOZA KNOWS MALBEC…Cheers!

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The neighborhood of La Boca….The home of Tango & the natives

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Our hostel provided us with a free tour of La Boca and it all starts at La Caminito. The buildings are painted as vibrant as the natives to this region are.  Foreigners fill the streets to get a taste of what is original and all started here.

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I was completely seduced by the origins of Tango in these streets. Learning that this was a dance of the poor before it became widely accepted by the French only made me more intrigued. PLUS… can you get any hotter than this?!? Her dress and his openly bare chest…. wuuuuuuu (as I fan myself)
****I just got this memory of Antonio Banderes via the movie Desperado……I know I know… that was a Spaniard playing a Mexican and dressed as a mariachi but this is my blog and it still applies;) Moving on;)

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This neighborhood still holds their history very close to them. 

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To any fútbol fan in this area….this stadium has to be their crown jewel;) Home of BOCAS JUNIORS right here in La Boca. I just wanted to scream GOOOOOOOOOAL really loud but didnt;) Jorgie was with me and I didn’t want him to leave me;) 

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Todo Boca explains it all here;)

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The other side of Montevideo

Our last days in Montevideo showed us a different side of the city. It was filled with the hustle and bustle of the locals, the sweet smell of the ocean,  and an ice cream cone;) Seriously,  the folks here in Montevideo looooove them some ice cream. EVERYONE had it….so staying true to what the locals do…I just had to suffer and have one too, you know,  to try it out;) If your gonna do it, the locals seem to herd like cattle around La Cigale…mi pistacho y almendra helado was muy delicioso! (I don’t really have a handle on how to say WAS) 😉
Melina,  I bet you were in heaven during your time here;)

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Farmers Market had sooooo much fresh food…sad to report no avocados. Its been 13 days and counting since my last avocado….

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Parrots were just hanging out and singing in the trees!!

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The 13.6 mile coastal trail puts you right along side the bikers, hikers, runners and sun bathers of Montevideo. We did about half of it as our destination was to see the lighthouse at the tip of the beach.

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Much smaller than we thought but, MISSION ACCOMPLISHED!
The Lighthouse @ Punta Brava

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As all good days should end…we sat and enjoyed with another “WALKER” 😉

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Chau Montevideo, Buenos Aires calls us;)

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