Monthly Archives: March 2014

Santiago…Parte Dos!

Over our next several days in Santiago we covered many if the highlights and gems of the city.
Our 1st stop:
The colorful neighborhood of Bella Vista.

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This artsy part of Santiago holds music, art, freedom, and expression as its foundation. Strolling this neighborhood is a can’t miss for me if you ever find yourself in Santiago.  

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Maybe it was the gorgeous weather, colorful buildings, or the ease of which I felt comfortable, but this neighborhood felt like Austin to me. And in that moment we stopped,  grabbed a michelada, and welcomed that feeling;) 

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This colorful district is also the proud owner of one of Pablo Neruda’s 3 famous homes.
“I love you without knowing how, or when, or from where. I love you simply, without problems or pride: I love you in this way because I do not know any other way of loving but this, in which there is no I or you, so intimate that your hand upon my chest is my hand, so intimate that when I fall asleep your eyes close.” – Pablo Neruda

Look him up….he’s a poet…and he’s awesome;)

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Our next stop:
The Vega Mercado
In this partially open air market you can find just about anything you might want. From tools to school supplies to toiletries, you can wheel and deal your afternoon away. The main attraction here though is the fresh food!!! The gigantic fruit and vegetable stands will have your fingers ready to pick and your tongue ready to taste!

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With every turn of your head, all you could see was a rainbow of colors!!

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TIP: Do not miss out on buying paltas (avocados) here. We bought one bigger than my hand!!! Es MUY delicioso!!! 

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And our last stop:
Santa Lucía District
This little area holds 2 things you should not miss! First, the Terraza Neptuno.

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This fountain holds an old beauty that non of my pictures truly does any justice. Adorned with 2 attached staircases that act as the wings to this fountain…makes it so angelic.

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And directly behind Terraza Neptuno lies Cerros de Santa Lucía.

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This walk up to the top will take you about 15-20 mins but at the top awaits one of the best views of the city.
CAUTION: The steps are pretty steep and are basically just rocks,  but if you use the handrail and walk carefully you should be just fine;)

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AT THE TOP! Sweaty and slightly winded we were rewarded with this view;)  You can faintly see the snow capped Andes Mountains looking over the city.

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Going down is just as dangerous…but you gotta get a pic right?!?

***Our time in Santiago is up and we must go, but this city will stay with me. VAMOS!

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Exploring the streets of Santiago de Chile!!

Throughout the entirety of the trip we always get asked some questions….“How long are you traveling?” “Where have you been so far?” “Where are you going next?” And if your Jorgie,  “Are you Chilean?” (I just get asked where I’m from…I think the Chinita eyes throw them off 😉 )
So naturally,  we were really wondering if the look of the people change that much here in Chile. Everywhere we had been thus far showed us a very “European”, colored eyes, light hair, and fair complexion crowd. So far, we hadn’t blended in at all;) But right off the bus we did notice a difference. Long gone were the green eyed blond hair folks of South America….and Jorgie really could have been Chilean! 🙂 
Santiago de Chile is slightly smaller in population than Buenos Aires but with almost 9 million people this city is nothing to put your nose up to.  Like with all our first days in a new place,we go strolling around our hostel to get our wits about us!

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We ran right into La Moneda. This would be the equivalent to our White House. Being centered in the city, you will find locals moving to and from work, travelers camera in hand alike, and….  

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On this day, a group of “young” ladies voicing their needs!
(It doesn’t matter what age a woman reaches…our bodies may shrink, our hair may turn silver, and our muscles may go weak, but our voices….STAY STRONG! 😉 GO LADIES!!
    

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Right up the street from La Moneda was Plaza de Armas.
This church, so far, is the most beautiful I’ve seen on the trip.
The outside,  had a very old, European inspired look, that attracted the eyes of everyone around it.

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And the inside, made you believe that there has to be a God. With the dim lights, and reverent silence, Jorgie and I just sat and tried to look at every inch of it so we would never forget. I don’t know who conjured up such a romantic depiction of this House of God, but Bravo, Bravo.

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The streets in Santiago were full of life,  but here, the people are in no real hurry. Stopping always to let women pass, not letting a person go by without a welcoming “Buenos Tardes,” and a midday chess tournament…apparently women are less interested in chess here;)

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The Andes Mountains & My 1st Tears Of the Trip.

As we left Mendoza we boarded a double decker bus headed to Santiago, Chile via the GORGEOUS road trip through the Andes Mountains with the best seats in the house…upper level front seats! We had read from many travelers that this bus ride was something we didn’t want to miss so we were excited to get an up close view;)  With empanadas, sour worms, and other snacks packed, we were ready! The Andes Mountains are truly an amazing natural beauty being the longest continental mountain range and stretching through 7 South American countries.

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Our trip will start on the Argentinian side, slowly traversing up into the Andes.

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The water and sky were the most perfect color blue…. I haven’t seen a lot, but this has to be one of the most beautiful things yet.

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You old smuggler you! 😉
Jorgie and I brought along a friend for the ride;) Argentinian Whiskey and we just have to sit back, kick our feet up, and enjoy?? (Both our hands raised) WE’RE IN!
(I don’t think we are considered Smugglers per saaaaay, but it’s as close to it as we are going to get) 😉

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After alittle while you pull up to the Chilean border. Now I hope your ready for a wait. To get across after unloading, processing, and loading it set us back about 1- 1.5hours. We’ve heard that was considered quick.

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Now we are technically in Chile and have to start our descend down this extremely windy road.  By this point the sun blazing through the window, the gentle wave of being on the top tier of a bus, and this road, is testing every bit of strength I have not to succumb to my motionsickness.
Note: Dramamine ain’t no match for any of this! 😉 lol

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But the road does calm down, as does my motion sickness…and really how much complaining can you do when THIS is staring back at you? 😉

NOOOOW….. I promised yall some tears…here it goes. 

I truly thought twice about whether or not I even wanted to share this story, seeing as how it has to be one of the most embarrassing things I’ve ever done…..but what the hell….it happened…and it’s one of those things that Jorgie and I had a, laugh so hard you cry, moment later……LIKE WAAAAY LATER. Once we knew the tears were gone and no permanent damage was going to remain.

Sooooo, I told you about the snacks rights?!?
We bought a small bottle of cayenne pepper hotsauce because nothing is spicy in Argentina and decided to take it with us, you know, travel hotsauce. 😉 Well it puffed up with the direct sunlight and when I went to open it up to eat my empanada (all excited snd happy)…..hotsauce right in the face! BOTH EYES!!!  Instant tears, blood shot eyes, my face was burning….Mascara everywhere…..Jorgie is pouring water into a napkin so I can try and get it out. Finally I remembered I had rewetting drops in my bag (thanks Mom!) and about an hour later…the burning had subdued;) Now, we made it into Chile, Jorgie alittle less bloodshot, puffy faced, motion sick than I…but we made it nevertheless.   Ridiculous;)
#hotsauceproblems

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THIS LITTLE GUY ALMOST KILLED ME;)

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Mendoza, Argentina: The Napa Valley of Sudamérica

As we took our 16hr bus ride on Ruta Nacional 7 from Buenos Aires, I sat with excitement for Mendoza,  Argentina.  This little gem of a city is known for 2 things; Wine (Malbec to be specific) and olive oil production. Mendoza is quickly earning its title amongst The Great Capitals of Wine. Mendoza is also the largest producer of wine in Latin America and having visited Napa Valley….I was ready to give Mendoza a try;)
We planned on visiting 2 vineyards and an olive oil tree crop plantation. 

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Lujan de Cuyo; The Land of Malbec

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We started with the smaller more traditional vineyard, Cavas de Don Arturo. At this charming vineyard they export less than 40% of their wines outside of Mendoza worldwide.  That means if you want Don Arturo….you have to come to Mendoza to get it! Something we could tell…they were extremely proud of.

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They walked us through the artform of wine making at Don Arturo. 

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BRING ON THE WINE!!! (I don’t have a problem…I swear) 😉
As I grabbed my stem ready to get me a taste, our tour guide wanted to teach us a thing or two BEFORE we drink. Val still waiting patiently….learns about how you should never drink a red if it’s orange or brown in color, that swishing the wine around not only aerates the wine and releases the aromas but also lets you see if the wine has tears. Ps…you want your wine to cry per our guide. After all if this, we were allowed to get a taste. BUT WAAAAAIT! Dont swallow, swish it around in your mouth let your tastebuds tingle a bit….NOOOOW you can swallow. All of this for one sip of wine!
Ooooh but it did not disappoint;)

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Next on our list was Vistandes Vineyard.
This more modern and much larger vineyard exports over 60% of its wine. Now this doesn’t mean that this vineyard has a lower quality just much larger in size and has the capacity to export due to size.

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Noooooow…I’d just be lying if I told you that we continued that whole rigamaroo (that’s a word right?) that we were just taught….we simply drank and enjoyed;)

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All I can say is MENDOZA KNOWS MALBEC…Cheers!

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The highlight of Buenos Aires

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This is the Church of Our Lady of Pilar attached to the La Recoleta Cemetery

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The inside of the church is magnificent!

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As we entered into the cemetery, with its high mausoleums and tombstones, you just couldn’t help but be at a loss for words.

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This cemetery is reserved for the wealthiest,  most prominent families, that held the most power, political office, and were born into old money that dates back years…………. Except for one;)

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The single most moving part of my time in Buenos Aires. This is the tomb of Eva “Evita” Duarte Perron.

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Evita’s voice for the people and her life given to the support of social justice was infectious.  Her passion not only to live for her husband but also for the people of Buenos Aires continues to resonate in the hearts of many still today. She was born to an “illegitimate” second family of a wealthy man that left them nothing more than his name, and shoned most of her life for the illegitimacy. She worked tirelessly to give support and aid to the working class and needy all the while being frowned upon by the wealthy that reserved all the rights and money. It is comical that she gained such notoriety with the country that she is laid to rest amongst the wealthiest families that worked so hard to separate themselves from her.
***I’m sure I will think about this long after I leave this place but it truly reminds me of what I wanted my own Conscience Journey to be.
Gracias Evita

“When the rich think about the poor,  they have poor ideas.”
-Eva Perron

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The neighborhood of La Boca….The home of Tango & the natives

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Our hostel provided us with a free tour of La Boca and it all starts at La Caminito. The buildings are painted as vibrant as the natives to this region are.  Foreigners fill the streets to get a taste of what is original and all started here.

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I was completely seduced by the origins of Tango in these streets. Learning that this was a dance of the poor before it became widely accepted by the French only made me more intrigued. PLUS… can you get any hotter than this?!? Her dress and his openly bare chest…. wuuuuuuu (as I fan myself)
****I just got this memory of Antonio Banderes via the movie Desperado……I know I know… that was a Spaniard playing a Mexican and dressed as a mariachi but this is my blog and it still applies;) Moving on;)

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This neighborhood still holds their history very close to them. 

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To any fútbol fan in this area….this stadium has to be their crown jewel;) Home of BOCAS JUNIORS right here in La Boca. I just wanted to scream GOOOOOOOOOAL really loud but didnt;) Jorgie was with me and I didn’t want him to leave me;) 

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Todo Boca explains it all here;)

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We are finally in Buenos Aires, Argentina!

Even after the huuuuuge mistake made at the bus station,  we were so excited to get our feet on the soil that are proud originators of tango, birth place of current Pope Francis, the icon of the people, Evita, and so much more because of this country’s rich history.  

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The Obelisco in the center of Buenos Aires stands tall and is at the very end of our street. With a city estimating 13 million people… this makes it larger than New York City!

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Our view of the city from the balcony of our hostel.
The hustle and bustle is just getting started;)

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As we do with all our 1st days in a new place,  we do a walk around our hostel to understand whats around us. We ran into Saint Ignacio Church.

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The inside was more breathtaking than the outside;)

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We came upon a march for freedoms going into the center of the city where, not only, the wealthiest people live and work, but where all the city’s decisions are made.

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The sky was filled with smoke and the chanting of freedom and dignity for the workers.

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I’m not sure we totally agreed with what was happening in front of us, but I loved that this city embraced the right for these people to gather, the right to free speech, gave them a platform, and kept it safe for all. People often take those very rights for granted…and do nothing with them.
Can’t wait to see all that this city has to offer;)

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Doh! (Slap my forehead)

As we happily go through the task of packing up our bags and strapping the, what seems like the weight of a small human, to our backs we kiss Montevideo goodbye and head to the bus station to wait for our transport to Buenos Aires 2 hrs early as instructed to do per our tickets. Ignorance is truly bliss because we were in for a very rude awakening.  We stand in line, present our tickets, and then she said it….your bus leaves at 1:15. We look at each other confused (its 11:15 our tickets say we leave at 1:15) We look at her and ask….whats the problem because her face is telling us something is wrong. She says, “You are early” Confused again we explain that the ticket said to be here early. She then says, your tickets are for 1:15 IN THE MORNING!  Defeated we move along to start what would be a 14 hour wait in a bus station.

2 things to remember while traveling South America:

1.) They work off of military time (we knew that but we just got confused)
1:15= in the morning
13:15= 1:15PM

2.) Get your spanish right before you get here or you might find yourself ready to drop kick the lady behind the food counter who is clearly yelling at you in Spanish because your spanish sucks. I was tired and really reeeeeally trying.

To the lady at California Burrito Company, when I’m done with my time in South America im coming back to Uruguay just so I can yell back at you in spanish;) 

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The other side of Montevideo

Our last days in Montevideo showed us a different side of the city. It was filled with the hustle and bustle of the locals, the sweet smell of the ocean,  and an ice cream cone;) Seriously,  the folks here in Montevideo looooove them some ice cream. EVERYONE had it….so staying true to what the locals do…I just had to suffer and have one too, you know,  to try it out;) If your gonna do it, the locals seem to herd like cattle around La Cigale…mi pistacho y almendra helado was muy delicioso! (I don’t really have a handle on how to say WAS) 😉
Melina,  I bet you were in heaven during your time here;)

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Farmers Market had sooooo much fresh food…sad to report no avocados. Its been 13 days and counting since my last avocado….

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Parrots were just hanging out and singing in the trees!!

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The 13.6 mile coastal trail puts you right along side the bikers, hikers, runners and sun bathers of Montevideo. We did about half of it as our destination was to see the lighthouse at the tip of the beach.

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Much smaller than we thought but, MISSION ACCOMPLISHED!
The Lighthouse @ Punta Brava

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As all good days should end…we sat and enjoyed with another “WALKER” 😉

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Chau Montevideo, Buenos Aires calls us;)

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My first meltdown & Montevideo, Uruguay

I feel inclined to be completely honest in my blog so as to not paint a dishonest picture of what we are doing or seeing. So let me start with the bad before I get to the beauty in discovering Montevideo.

—HERE GOES. .. I had my first meltdown.  I mean, completely lost it, not rational Val at all, MAJOR MELTDOWN! We arrived at El Viajero Hostel around 1 in the morning after a flight and bus ride….I was tired, hungry, and ready for a shower. I open my bag to discover, what I’m sure every traveler has seen at least once, my shampoo had busted over everything! NOW… there’s nothing to do but clean it up, but I am livid! Now my partner in crime, Jorge, has a front row ticket to the Val meltdown show and he can’t escape it if he wants to…so he’s doing EVERYTHING he can to help me….but I’m soooo mad. Not really at the spilt shampoo but the fact that I was already running low….then I find what I thought might send me flying over the edge. Glass was everywhere. My mirror had broke! After a shower and a few deep breaths I had to return to my dorm, head hanging with embarrassment for the meltdown that had just occurred for SHAMPOO AND A MIRROR (how ridiculous) only to find Jorge sitting there, eyebrows raised, smirk on his face, cautiously asking “You okay?” Soooo funny NOW. …but I honestly was so mad about spilt shampoo;) #travelerissues
Now that its off my chest…. On to Montevideo!!

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About a minutes walk from our hostel an outdoor market is taking place with local treasures to be bought;) 

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Plaza Indepencia in the center of town

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I just thought this church was beautiful!

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Everday we get to make this trek back to our hostel down this amazingly picturesque road;)

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Aaaaaand of course….its laundry time! Living out of a bag means constant washing and a new found appreciation for washing machines!! But what a rooftop view huh?!?

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